Day
38 – Louiseville to Portneuf ~ 75 miles
This
morning we got packed up and said our goodbyes to the french cyclist
who was camped next to us. She didn't say much but neither did we. We
headed up to a grocery store where we had breakfast outside on a
table out in the sun. After that we were off towards Portneuf along
the river. The sun was shining and the wind was in our faces but it
was lite. We kept peddling all day long and kept each other occupied
with conversation. We passed by many really neat churches today that
were really old. In fact many of the towns we passed through today
were founded in the 1600's. The churches had a really neat silver
glow to them on their steeples.
We
stopped for lunch at a supermarket and were really full afterwards.
We didn't want to move, all we wanted was a nap. We reluctantly got
back on our bikes and headed the 20 more miles towards Portneuf. When
we reached the town we had a hard time finding a grocery store but we
eventually did after climbing a big hill and asking for directions at
a gas station. We had to cross over the freeway and up a huge hill
that we almost had to walk up. We got stocked up for the night and
then headed back down the hill, up another one, back down and finally
up another huge hill to get to Camping de Panoramique. This place is
a glorified retirement home where everyone lives in lavish trailers
and drive golf carts around. We are literally the youngest people
here and surely the only people in tents. Its a little uncomfortable
being here but at least it is quiet. We took showers and then checked
the email to see if anyone had responded to us for a place to stay
tomorrow in Quebec city. No one had so we found some phone numbers on
the Warm Showers Network and gave them a try. After much searching we
found a place to stay tomorrow night and for our rest day on
Saturday. We met some really nice people who spoke to us in english
and asked about our trip so they could go tell their non english
speaking friends about us. We definitely stick out like sore thumbs
here. The rest of the evening was spent making calls, walking around
this giant trailer park (with its own streets), and avoiding the
rain.
Tomorrow
we are off to Quebec city where we will explore and catch up an doing
nothing. We may even have a radio interview on CBC radio so stay
tuned!
Day
39 – Portneuf to Quebec City ~ 70 miles
This
morning we packed quickly and had breakfast. We left and hopped back
on the 138, spirits were high. We had the wind at our backs but it
looked as though it might rain on us. We made our way along the river
and caught sight of the bridge in Quebec City. After about 20 miles
we stopped and got some coffee at Tim Hortons. Luckily we were inside
because thats when the rain started. It did not last long and then we
were on our way again nearing the city. When we were about 6 miles
away we had to take a detour. We decided to stay on our path and see
if we could walk our bikes around it. We found out that it was
possible but they had fenced everything off so we had to turn back.
We decided to look for something else after realizing that the detour
would put us on the freeway. We headed down a small road that took us
through a tunnel under the freeway. This led us to a small dirt road
that eventually brought us to the train tracks. We crossed them and
followed a dirt road into a neighborhood. We eventually found our way
back onto our route.
Once
in town we stopped at a grocery store for lunch and then headed to
Marianne's house where we were to stay for the next 2 nights. She was
a very nice person with a brand new cat. Kris called the bike shop
where we had a package sent and then she showed us the way through
downtown where we got our external hard drive that Mona had been so
kind to send us with a hand made yarn owl that she had worked on as
well. She went back to the house to get ready for dinner while we
explored old downtown and the naval ship museum. We headed back to
the house where dinner was running late. We decided to head off to
the circus as that was the plan and have dinner afterwards. The
circus was great! It was very small and intimate but hilarious even
though it was in french. We had an amazing time and would have gone
to see it again.
After
the circus we went back and made stir fry before heading out on the
town for a while. Marianne took us to a close by bar where we had
great conversation as the night went on. On our way back home we went
to a local snack bar and got some poutine to bring back before bed.
It was delicious!
Tomorrow
we have a rest day and plan on exploring as much of the city as
possible after a morning of shopping at the local street days garage
sale.
Day
40 – Quebec City Rest Day
This
morning we woke up and got ready for the garage sales. We headed out
and went down the block for espresso and chocolate croissants. We
then spent the next few hours looking at all the stuff in the alleys
for many blocks. Marianne found lots of stuff for her new apartment
and Zach found a small painting. We helped her carry all of her stuff
back including two new living room chairs. After that we said our
goodbyes to her as she was leaving for the evening to go to a
friend's cabin. We left and headed into downtown and our first stop
was at the grocery store for some late lunch. After that we went up
and up and up until we reached the top the the hill where downtown
and old Quebec were. We saw so many old buildings and a beautiful
streets. We went by parliament and talked to some protestors about
the student protests and the ongoing pursuit of Quebec trying to
become their own nation. It was very interesting talking to those
people about these issues.
We
then headed into the walls of the old city and explored for a while.
Kris got a couple of gifts and then we got ice cream. After that we
went down to the overlook where you could see for miles in every
direction. We shot some footage and reflected on how this was a far
east as we will come on our trip. What a turning point both
figurative and literal. We will be turning around and heading west
for the first time on our trip back towards the USA, and eventually
Duluth. It is a huge milestone for us to be here. We have been
thinking about this city for the last month of the trip, but words
cant describe how it feels to have made it. Getting here had gotten
us through so much and now we have new milestones to reach. The USA,
large cities, and then back home to Duluth!
We
biked back to Marianne's house after checking out a couple more
sights on the way. We caught her just before she left for the
evening. After she was gone we walked to the grocery store to pick up
dinner and breakfast for tomorrow morning. We got a decent frozen
pizza so we could utilize the opportunity of the oven and had a
mediocre hot meal. While the pizza cooked we worked on planning out
our route for the next few days. We are adjusting some things so we
wont have to do another 100 mile day when we head into Montreal on
the South side of the river. After figuring out the route we are
going to get organized before we clean up and go to bed.
Even
though today was a rest day we are exhausted. But we have to keep
pushing on and stay on track. You could spend so many more days in
Quebec and not see it all. We hope we are doing enough filming...it
is really difficult to keep up with it all, but we are doing the best
we can.
Heading
across the river and back West tomorrow!
Day
41 – Quebec City to Camping a la Roche ~ 65 miles
We
woke up this morning at Marianne's place at around 9:30. We slept in
a bit because we were up a bit late last night chasing down the
protesters and enjoying our day off. We made some coffee and had our
fruit and bagels for breakfast. We packed up our things and made our
way into town. We headed down to the dock area because we wanted to
avoid having to bike up and over the hill. It was busy and difficult
trying to deal with the traffic and people, but we made good time and
enjoyed biking next to the river.
As
we made our way out of town we we able to see the bridge in the
distance that we we going to cross. We made it very near the bridge
and then had to climb the hill to make it up to the crossing level.
The bridge is enormous and beautiful, but the path for bikes is very
narrow so we crossed slowly in order to be safe. We made it across
and were officially on the south side of the Seaway and on our way
back home!
We
stopped for lunch in Ste. Croix at the local grocery store and sat
out in the Sun and enjoyed our food. It was a very nice day weather
wise and had a decent tailwind to help us out. After lunch we reached
a detour and decided to try to pass it. We reached the town and found
the detour and realized it wasn't passable. We tried to communicate
with someone before the detour and we thought they told us we would
be ok. This is where being able to comprehend French would have
helped. Luckily a family in the town saw us and noticed we were
trying to pass. So they showed us a way around the detour and walked
us through a field and got us by without having to bike out of our
way to pass.
We
got clear of the detour and continued to bike along the river. We
reached Saint Pierre led Becquets around 6 or so and stopped at the
grocery store for dinner. We picked up dinner and headed to the
campground. Pretty normal day. We showered and ate and relaxed while
we enjoyed the sunset. We walked back up into town to the local Dep
to get prepaid phone cards and then went back and headed to bed. We
have been leaving the fly of the tent open to keep it cool while we
sleep.
Day
42 – A la Roche to South of Sorel-Tracy ~ 92 miles
We
woke up around 9 or so feeling rested, but wanting to sleep longer.
We slowly got up and ate our usual breakfast of fruit and bagels. We
packed up and headed up the steep hill from the camp up to the road.
We stopped about 10 miles down the road when we reached a payphone.
We had to call into CBC radio because we had an interview that we
were supposed to do over the phone. We did the interview and it aired
at 4:00 today internationally. Really humbling to be a part of.
After
the interview we continued on. We could tell early on that it was
going to be a hot day. We bike at a pretty good pace until we reached
Nicolet where we stopped for lunch. When we stopped for lunch however
we really noticed the heat. After we ate we really slowed down and
struggled to keep going. Now that we are headed west the sun is in
our face for most of the day and it is really noticeable. The road
quality also got worse which made the day even more stressful. We
stopped a few times along the way in the shade to get a brake.
We
reached Sorel-Tracy around 6:30 or so and stopped at a local pizza
place for dinner. At that point we were exhausted and had already
done 70+ miles. We ate and enjoyed the cool indoor temps. It didnt
last long though and we had to continue on to find our site for the
night. We were trying to make it to a campsite that had no water or
toilets, but they said we could stay. We passed another campground on
the way, but they wanted to charge us $50 dollars for the night! It
was already 8:30! That was absurd so we continued on and tried to
reach the campground that we had decided on prior.
We
never found it. We ended up stopping at a Historical site which was a
canal/ dam. We found a square of tall cedar bushes that was covering
a power box and pitched our tent inside the square. It was protected
from view, but not from the heat a mosquitos. We quickly set up our
tent and hopped in to avoid getting eaten alive. We laid in bed and
sweated for a while before we fell asleep. Not ideal but we had gone
92 miles and didn't want to go any further.
Day
43 – South of Sorel-Tracy to Montreal ~ 56 miles
Woke
up very early today to all of the park workers arriving and looking
at us in our hidden abode. We quickly threw everything together and
left onto the road. On the road we packed up our stuff properly and
then we were off. It was quite a ways before we found a town where we
could get something to eat and refill our water bottles. Yesterday
really took it out of us and we were feeling it, especially
dehydration. Once we found a town we got huge bottles of juice and
milk and then ate our other pizza that we couldn't finish last night.
After that we were off into the strong wind towards Montreal.
A
few hours later we stopped to get some more water and then started to
enter the busy city. We were actually on the south side of the river
and the city is on the north side but it still a very populated area.
Right as the rain started to fall we stopped at a grocery store for
lunch and took refuge under the awning as we ate. It started to rain
harder and we had to go back out in it. We made our way over a bike
ramp that took us over the freeway and found a really cool bike path
that was actually out on the water. We were not sure if it was a
breakwater or what but we biked along a dirt path out on the water
looking out at the city on the other side of the river in the hazy
rain. About ½ mile before we reached a bridge Zach got the first
flat tire of the trip. It was pretty impressive since we have biked
over 2500 miles but it couldn't have come at a worse time. Zach
walked his bike to the bridge where he found the source of the
problem, a small but very sharp thorn shaped rock. He tried to repair
the leak but it was wet so he just put on a new tube and we were on
our way in the rain again.
Bike
paths are always a blessing as they get you away from traffic and
tend to be quieter, but as you bikers know a dirt path in the rain
causes havoc on your chain and shifting systems on road bikes. By the
time the trail turned to pavement, everything was caked in dirt and
grit. We will definitely need to clean our bikes and trailers tonight
or tomorrow. Once we got off the trail we had to find our warm shower
spot for the night. We got a little mixed up but eventually found the
right roads that took us there. We arrived at Domanique's house right
as he got there. We sprayed off all the grime with the hose and then
went inside to get showered up and ready for dinner. He had a great
salmon dinner made up in no time and soon we were engaged in
conversations about past trips and his bicycle journey throughout
south america. The rest of the night we sat out on the porch with his
dad and had Cuban cigars and flaming Sambuca. We went to bed watching
Te Dark Knight, hoping that the rain will end by tomorrow.
Tomorrow
we will head to Camping le Dauphin, which is very near the US border.
We are very excited to be entering back into America in the next two
days!
Day
44 – South Montreal to Camping le Dauphin ~ 53 miles
This
morning could not have come at a worse time, all we wanted was to
sleep the day away. But got ready and brought all of our things
outside. We pumped up our tires and made some quick adjustments
before saying our goodbyes. We headed to a grocery store for
breakfast and then we were off west towards St-Anicet. The wind was
pretty bad and we were so tired so it was slow going. We passed
through a reservation and couldn't believe all of the smoke shops,
literally 50 or so in a mile! After that we found a random DQ in the
middle of nowhere and stopped for some Blizzards. That definitely
made us feel better. After that we kept following hwy 132 and slowly
making our way west. We should have gotten lunch a few hours before
but there really wasn't much until we made it to St-Anicet. There we
got lunch and dinner and then made the final 2 miles to the
campground. We showered and then Zach headed back into town for some
more supplies, while Kris made some phone calls back home. After Zach
returned we both extensively cleaned our bikes and that took so long
but it was so needed! The rest of the night we looked at our route
for the next few days and marveled in the fact that the US is so
close. The border is only 10 miles away and we will strike early in
the morning.
Looking
back at our time in Canada, we have seen so much in such a short
time. It was an amazing experience but what we will come away with
the most is how wonderful people were to us. Everyone was interested
in what we were doing and were so willing to lend a hand or a place
to stay. The people who put us up at night were so incredibly
friendly and hospitable, they really made us feel at home. We cant
thank them enough and will never forget what they did for us. Canada
it has been a pleasure, Quebec it has been interesting but great. USA
here we come, you better be ready because we wont be looking back!
Day
45 – Camping le Dauphin to Jacques Cartier State Park ~ 90 miles
Woke
up late this morning to the mosquitoes waiting for us on the edges of
the tent. A bit tired after having to deal with our first pesky
raccoon of the trip. It came right up to our tent and we had to get
out and hit it with a stick. It came back a second time and we had to
hit it even harder and chase it up a tree before it decided to leave
us alone. We got ready quickly and headed out in high spirits towards
the USA! We stopped about 8 miles down the road and tried to get rid
of some of our canadian money and get some snacks. About 10 minutes
later we were at the US border, crossing into New York, something we
have been waiting 45 days to see. We crossed the border and then had
to go through customs. They had a lot of questions for us and then
wanted to see our footage that we had just filmed. In the end they
gave us a lot of grief for two guys being on bicycles. We finally
were on our way again and stopped in Messena for some lunch and Zach
went looking for a Sprint store to get a new phone. He didn't find
one and then were on our way along the Seaway trail that will take us
along all of the NY shorelines.
We
made it to our destination by 3pm and decided that we would keep
going as it would make tomorrow shorter. Tomorrow we will be staying
at a lake home and having a good relaxing rest with good people form
Duluth. We ended up continuing on and headed towards Ogdensburg. On
the way there we stopped for a snack at a gas station and then were
off again. We then stopped at a campground and found out if we went
20 more miles we would find a state park. In Ogdensburg we stopped
for dinner and then were off again with the wind at our backs and
shoulders that were 10 feet wide at times. We quickly made it to
Morrisburg and got some beer and then made it to the campground
before the sun went down. It was the cheapest site yet but the most
beautiful and well groomed. We had the site all to ourselves, which
it meant it was quiet. We went down to the shoreline and watched the
sunset and filmed the 1000 islands and Brockville across the river.
We went back up to the campsite where we showered up and then went
off into the woods and found a abundance of firewood and then made a
great fire and had great conversations of life. We went to bed a few
hours later to the sounds of the woods in peace.
We
are so happy to be back in the USA where we don't have to speak
French to survive and everything is cheap. Tomorrow we have a short
day to Cape Vincent where we will be staying with a couple from
Duluth at their lake home where we will have a nice rest and some
time to explore, reset, and get ready for the second half of our
trip!
Day
46 – Jacque Cartier SP to Cape Vincent, NY ~ 40 miles
We
woke up this morning to the sound of a lawn mower at 7 am...luckily
that is what time we had the alarm set for. We fell back to sleep
until about 8 and then got up for our last day on the Seaway. We
packed up our stuff and ate our breakfast of an apple and bagel with
Nutella. We wanted to get going ASAP because we knew that it would
mean a longer time to relax once we reached our destination 40 miles
or so away.
We
headed out of the park with the sky blue and sun beating down. We
headed west towards Alexandria Bay. We continued on pretty
uneventfully, but making pretty good time considering we had a bit of
headwind. We stopped at an overlook that looked out on the Seaway and
we could see the Singer Castle on Dark Island, which is one of a
couple big castles on the Seaway in the Thousand Islands region. It
was paid for to be build by one of the early Presidents of the Singer
Sewing Machine company. It is a beautiful building from a far and we
would love to tour it someday.
We
continued on through the countryside until we reached the town of
Clayton. We stopped at a gas station and got a snack and sat outside
and watched as a bunch of cigarette racing boats pulled into the gas
station to fill up. Being Friday people are headed to the water to
relax.
After
we stopped it was a pretty quick jaunt to Ken and Joanne's home along
the river just outside of Cape Vincent. The wind switched a bit a so
it was great as made our way to their place. We arrived around 1:30,
so it was a quick day for us.
They
came out to greet us as we arrived and we stood out and talked a bit.
After we went inside and enjoyed the sloppy joe sandwiches that they
prepared for us. After we ate we showered and then hopped in the car
and we drove up to Cape Vincent to check out the town and the
Tibbet's Point Lighthouse. We drove around to Clayton and Alexandria
Bay and they showed us around the area and explained some of the
history of the area.
We
made our way back to the house and had a happy hour with Gin and
Tonics and some snacks. At about 8:30 we sat down for an amazing
dinner prepared by Joanne and Ken of Beef, Pork, Mashed Potatoes,
Butternut Squash, Bread, and Salad with the “Original” Thousand
Island Dressing. The dressing was invented in the Clayton area and
named after the Thousand Island region of the St. Lawrence Seaway.
Right in the middle of dinner a few of Ken and Joannes friends
stopped by and said hello. They arrived here last night at 7 and
haven't had a chance to really settle in yet.
After
dinner we sat and watched the guy tight rope over the Horseshoe Falls
at Niagara. It has been a relaxing afternoon and we have really
enjoyed their company and can't thank them enough for opening their
home to us.
Tomorrow
we have another short day to Selkirk Shores SP and should be going
through Rochester, NY on Monday!
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