Day
24 Leamington to Port Stanley ~ 103 miles
We
woke up at about 7:30 and went inside and Robbie had made coffee for
us. We double checked our route and talked for a few minutes. After
coffee we went back out and tore down the tent and packed our bags.
We said goodbye and took a picture together.
We
headed back the way we had come into town to stop at the Leamington
Post. A lady named Pat Bailey interviewed us for an article that will
be coming out in a few days! After the interview we biked down to the
waterfront where she took our picture for the article. The harbor in
Leamington is one location where there is a ferry out to Pelee
Island. This is an island in Lake Erie that is know for its wineries.
After taking the pictures and filming a bit we headed up to Wal Mart
where Zach grabbed a phone charger and a calling card.
We
headed up to Tim Hortons and got some breakfast. We had a bagel with
cream cheese/ breakfast sandwich, doughnuts, and an iced coffee. To
hot today to be drinking hot coffee. After eating we headed out onto
the road to begin our 100 mile day!
We
got off to a pretty good start heading down highway 3. The road was
flat for the most part and the traffic was minimal. We were also
within sight of the Lake, so that was a treat! The wind was pushing
sideways off the Lake so it was a bit of a battle, but not to bad. We
pushed through a bunch of miles and then got into another area with
wind turbines. More than we had previously seen. We stopped to do
some filming and then continued on.
We
reached a town called Blenheim once we had reached about 45 miles. We
stopped at our usual Subway routine for lunch and read the paper to
see what was happening in the World. After lunch we just had to keep
on going.
Zach
hit a wall after lunch and just had a hard time going. He sang “99
Bottles of Beer” once through and half way through again to pass
the time. We eventually met back up together and talked to pass the
time. At around 70 miles or so we both were really struggling so we
stopped at a small gas station to get something cold to drink and to
get off of the bikes for a minute. Just after we stopped at the gas
station we saw a lone tourer that was headed to California.
We got off highway 3 and then continued toward Port Stanley. We encountered a big hill that people had been telling us about. We were skeptical because of how flat it has been the last few days, but unfortunately it wasn't an illusion. It was big but not long...just steep. So we powered up it and continued on. The conditions were brutal. So hot and humid and our bodies were just wrecked. Used to doing about 70 miles a day we just had to convince ourselves to keep going.
We
finally reached Port Stanley at 7 pm, we made it 103 miles! A nice
small port town, a diamond in the rough known for its fishing (Perch
mainly). We met Lynn and her boyfriend Dave at the local convenience
store after stopping at the LCBO. They picked up Perch from a local
eatery and we followed them about a quarter mile back to Lynn's
house.
Her
place is amazing! It is about 100 yards from the Lake, tucked
perfectly up on a hill. She has an amazingly elaborate deck in the
back with a hot tub, bar, eating/ lounge area, multiple levels, and a
beautiful garden! We sat outside and met a couple of her friends that
were there. We drank a few beers and then ate dinner. We ate the
awesome perch, french fries, salad, and pumpernickel bread! It was so
good and we ate so much. Had to re fuel after the long ride.
After
dinner we showered and then went back out to enjoy the sunset on the
deck. To our amazement Lynn and Dave went to spend the night on
Dave's trailer and they left us the entire place to ourselves! It was
amazing, pure luxury.
We
used the computer to figure out our route for the next few days and
then we just relaxed, watched some TV and then a movie called
Righteous Kill. We were having to much fun doing nothing and we
aren't headed to bed until 2 am after the movie gets done. A great
way to end a 100 mile day.
We
are headed to Port Dover tomorrow.
Day
25 – Port Dover to Selkirk Shores Provincial Park ~ 90 miles
We
woke up at 7 to the sounds of an air compressor being started at the
home next to Lynn's. They were working outside on the deck and soon
after the air compressor stopped they turned on the radio. So we
struggled to sleep till 9 and got up around that time when Lynn and
Dave returned.
We
made coffee and lounged around for a bit. We slowly packed our things
and then Lynn took us back into town for a ride in her convertible.
She wanted to show us the town so we could do some filming. We went
down to the public beach area where most of the local pubs and hang
out spots are. Then we drove around and she showed us some of the
industry of the town.The two main industrial things in town is the
fishing and the asphalt plant. Otherwise it is mostly tourism.
After
driving around we stopped at one of the local coffee shops called
Village Square Coffeehouse. It was great! They had chocolate
croissant, which we have been waiting for a while to get, and some
amazing coffee from Nicaragua. We sat and ate a bit and then drove
around a bit more. We went down to another small beach and then
headed back into town. As we passed the coffee shop again we noticed
that there were 3 touring bikes parked outside. We stopped and went
into talk to the owners of the bikes. They were 3 guys from Ohio and
Illinois. They were about a week in on their tour around Lake Erie.
One of the guys plans to bike the Continental Divide (US) in the
future. We talked to them for a bit and then took a picture together.
After that we stopped at one of the local inns. One of Lynn's friends
owns it and she is also big into bike touring. She has done many
trips overseas. We talked with her for a bit and then headed back to
Lynn's place.
When
we got back to Lynn's we did a bit of filming and then took a picture
together and said our goodbyes. She invited us to stay with her again
if we ever come her way...we would like to do that. Port Stanley is a
pretty cool place.
We
waved goodbye and left her driveway around noon. We hopped onto
highway 3 and rode through St. Thomas and headed toward our
destination in Port Dover. The condition of Highway 3 had drastically
changed from yesterday. It was nice yesterday with a decent shoulder
and minimal traffic. Today it was awful. Old decrepit road with
monster cracks and a foot of thick gravel right on the white line.
We
kept cruising as best we could. It was really hot and humid again
today. We stopped at Wendy's for lunch. More than anything we just
wanted to get out of the heat for a bit. But we ate and talked to a
few people and then went back out into the heat and continued on.
We
eventually got off the horrible road and onto a few side roads that
headed into Port Dover. We stopped at the local RV campground that
Dave had recommended the night before.We talked to someone that was
staying there who told us it was RV's only. We called the owner and
asked if we could pitch our tent. He told us no because he said it
would cause to many problems, but he recommended another park. We
think that is really sad that you can't even pitch a tent for one
night in a campground. What is happening to people? So we took our
money elsewhere.
We
continued into Port Dover and stopped at a convenience store to fill
up on fluids. It was still really uncomfortably hot. We enjoyed our
beverages and asked around to see if anyone else knew of a place we
could camp for the night. Nobody seemed to know anything.
We
continued on to find the park that the owner of the RV camp had
recommended and discovered that is was a community park with ball
fields and playground. We couldn't figure out why he would even send
us there. Anyone who lives that town would know not to send someone
there to camp. Stupid. While we were there a lady offered us a place
to pitch our tent in her yard. Super nice of her, but unfortunately
it was back the way we had come and we didn't feel like backtracking.
So
we continued on to Selkirk Shores PP. It was about another 15 miles
or so past Port Dover. On our way we passed a massive US Steel plant
and an Ontario Power plant. Before we made the turn to the park we
biked another 2 miles into the town of Selkirk to get something to
eat. The first and only thing we found open was a convenience store
so we just got a few snacks as we were still content from Wendy's.
We
headed back to the park exhausted. It ended up being a 93 mile day.
Much longer than we intended. Almost 2 100 mile days back to back. We
are beat. We headed down to check out the beach after we showered and
set up because there was a massive lightning storm over Lake Erie. We
went down and enjoyed the show and are going to bed extremely tired.
We
are heading to Niagara tomorrow and are really excited!
Day
26 – Selkirk Shores to ACBB Hostel Niagara ~ 55 miles
We
woke up around 830 got our things packed up and then headed back into
Selkirk to get breakfast. Right away we could tell it was going to be
a scorcher of a day.We stopped at a local dinner called the Sunflower
I think. We each had the big breakfast. 3 slices of French toast, 2
eggs, breakfast potatoes, and three sausages, with coffee. It was
nice to have a solid breakfast for a change.
We
headed out of town through farm country again. We went through a town
and then got onto some country backroads. We weaved in and out
changing directions and roads every so often.
We
eventually reached the Welland Canal. It is an important shipping
canal that links Erie and Ontario allowing the ships to skip around
Niagara Falls. It is rally quite impressive.
Once
we reached the canal we didn't have much further to go to reach our
KOA destination on Lundy's Lane just on the outskirts of Niagara.
There are a lot of shut down businesses and hotels along the road, as
well as a handful of gentlemen's clubs. Not what we would have
expected in Niagara.
We
reached the KOA around 4 and paid for the Value site (tent only no
hookups, 40 bucks). We went and biked to the site and immediately
looked at each other. It was awful. It was a small patch of grass in
the back of the campground with no shade and trash strewn about. We
looked at each other and agreed we would rather sleep behind the
public library. Zach biked back up to the front desk and told them we
wanted to up grade. We paid 4 more bucks and got moved to an equally
shitty site. We were not going to stay there or any KOA for that
matter. We got out the laptop and immediately started looking for
alternate options.
We
settled on a local hostel. The ACBB hostel, which is about a 15 min
walk from the falls. It was about 5 dollars more per person than the
KOA and we got a shower, bed, breakfast, WI-FI, location, and
company. Not even a contest.
We
biked up there and stopped at DQ to get a blizzard before settling
in. We arrived at the hostel and put our things into our room and
showered and then went at sat in the communal area. We met a guy
named Clem from France and we ended up going to Boston Pizza with him
for a bite to eat. After we ate with Clem we parted ways and we went
down to see the Falls. It was the first time Zach has seen them and
Kris had been before. It was dark by the time we got there, but the
falls were lit up. It was a beautiful sight.
We
were so amazed by the number of people in Niagara. It is really
pretty depressing how built up and tourist centered it has become. It
seems like people go down to the falls for 30 min and then get bored
and go play mini golf or do other tourist things. We are determined
to spend our time near the river as far away from the crowds as
possible.
After
checking out the falls we headed back to the hostel and watched a bit
of Into the Wild. It was nice to sit and relax. We are going to bed
at a decent time because we have a rest day tomorrow and don't want
to sleep the day away.
Day
27 – ACBB Hostel Niagara – Rest Day
We
woke up around 8:30 and Zach showered and we went down for breakfast.
After breakfast we decided to get our laundry done while we had the
opportunity. We walked a few blocks to the laundromat and quickly got
it done.
After
the laundromat we walked back to the hostel and talked to Patrick,
the hostel owner, about things we should see around the falls. We set
off to head up above the falls to the rapids area. On our way we
stopped at a small local pub/ eatery in the small town just south of
Niagara. We had a burger and beer and then headed to the rapids.
Our
plan was to start at the rapids and move down river and end up at the
whirlpool. It is amazing how few people there were above the falls.
Everybody just flocks right to the falls and don't realize that the
river is pretty awesome. The rapids are huge and the river above the
falls is really wide. The volume of water heading between the two
lakes it tremendous. There is an old barge called the “Old Scow”
that got cut loose from its tug above the falls back in the day. It
floated toward the falls and the two men that were aboard opened the
bottom hatches in the boat and were able to get it stuck on some
rocks in the rapids. It took them almost a whole night to get off,
but they were able to make it to shore alive.
After
the rapids we headed down to the falls. Being on the Canadian side we
could get right up next to Horseshoe Falls (the more famous of the
two falls at Niagara). It was really awesome. We did some filming and
then headed inside to check out the prices to head below the falls.
We opted not to go down because it was around 3pm and we wanted to
make it down to the whirlpool before dark. We stuck around by the
falls for a bit longer and then headed down river to get out of the
crazy crowd of people.
We
biked down to the whirlpool. It is the largest whirlpool in the
world. The current looked so amazingly strong from above. We had to
hike down a ravine with over 300 stairs to the bottom. We hiked down
and talked to a couple that said someone who was fishing the day
before went in the water for a swim and hadn't been seen since. They
said the police were down there earlier in the day looking for them.
It speaks about how powerful the water is there. It was a really cool
area. We saw a couple guys fishing and one of them pulled a decent
small mouth bass out of the water. After hanging out for a few
minutes we began the long hike out back up to the road. It was so
hot! We were dripping sweat by the time we made it back to the top.
We
biked back to the hostel and by that point it was almost dinner time.
We walked into town and Kris went to a convenience store to get some
allergy meds and Zach used a payphone to call home. We started
walking back toward the hostel and then decided to try to find the
restaurant with the “all you can eat” pasta dinner for $7.99.
Kris had seen the sign earlier. We were just about to give up on
finding it when we ran into it. We ate dinner and then rushed back to
the hostel to get our camera equipment because there were fire works
that started at 10 right above the falls.
We
grabbed our gear and then headed down to the falls. The fireworks
were a lot of fun to see. They were really well done, and apparently
they are going all summer long on Friday and Sunday nights. After the
fireworks we went back up the hill to Boston Pizza for a beer. After
the beer we headed back to the hostel. Kris showered and then we went
to bed.
We
are heading to Hamilton tomorrow via Niagara on the Lake. We enjoyed
Niagara, but are ready to move on to a new place.
Day
28 – ACBB Hostel to Hamilton ~ 60 miles
Woke
up this morning not wanting to move. We got packed after some showers
and had a small breakfast at the hostel. Once we were all set we got
a picture in front of the hostel and some directions and headed out
of town towards the Niagara River trail. After stopping at Tim
Hortons we made it to the bike path, right where we had been the day
before by the whirlpool.
The
path was amazing! It took us through beautiful forests, gardens, and
very scenic views of the river. We eventually came upon a very large
hydro dam and did some filming there. Just to the left of the dam The
valley opened up and we could see for many miles around us. We
continued on the path and eventually made it to Niagara on the Lake.
Here we took a quick look at Fort George, the French fort used in the
war of 1812. After that we hit lake Ontario and took a few minutes to
take it all in. On the opposite side of the river was Fort Niagara on
the US side.
From
there we biked through many vineyards, orchards, and berry farms as
we headed west for the first time on our trip. Very quickly we made
it to the waterfront trail, which took us through neighborhoods and
parks along the water. After we passed through St. Catherines we
hooked back up with the trail on a side road that followed the
freeway towards Hamilton. It was great because the pavement was
smooth and there was a large bike lane on it with very little
traffic. The problem was that it was getting hotter and hotter during
the day. We just couldn't get enough water in. We passed a marina
where we saw an old ship that looked like a pirate ship and we
stopped there to film it. We also stood on the beach and tried to
make out the Toronto skyline across the lake.
From
here we kept on peddling until we decided we needed to get out of the
sun and really get a lot of water in and a bite to eat. We stopped at
Subway and did just that. Kris called Linda and figured out the plans
to meet up with her. We were pretty far away form them and they lived
on top of a huge cliff (escarpment) so they came and picked us up. We
biked to the Husky and waited for them to arrive. Linda and her
daughter Rebecca brought their cars and we piled all of our stuff in
and they took us home. Having gotten on top of the escarpment I
realized that it would have been almost impossible to reach their
house in the heat. They also told us that the temperatures reached 94
degrees that day, no wonder we were struggling so much. That was the
hottest day by far!
We
got showered up back at the house and had dinner with her and her
daughter. After dinner they took us around town to show us a few
things and to figure out the best route for the morning since the
terrain and roads are difficult in that area. They took us down to
the waterfront park and we walked around for a bit. After that they
took us to the lift bridge that we would have to cross in the morning
to make sure that the repairs were done on it and we could cross.
We
headed back to their house and watched a really funny old movie
called The Rise and Fall of the Great Lakes. After this was over we
headed to bed exhausted from the heat and long eventful day. Tomorrow
we will finally make it to Toronto for exploration and rest.
Day
29 – Hamilton to Toronto ~ 50 miles
We
woke up this morning a bit later than we had hoped we would. It was
around 9:30. Lynda had made us a breakfast of egg sandwiches and
coffee. After breakfast we packed up our things and got ready to head
out. We took a picture together and then we headed on down the road.
We can't thank Lynda and her daughter enough for being gracious
hosts. Her house is on the top of the escarpment so we got to take
one of the access roads down to the lake level. We rode down for
about a mile going about 25mph. It was a great way to start the
morning.
We
navigated our way down to the waterfront trail and started to head
west to cross the lift bridge....we got bridged. There was a ship
pulling into harbor just as we were pulling up. We went out to the
end of the pier and filmed the ship coming in. Its home port is Sault
Ste. Marie. After the ship passed through we crossed and were on our
way again. We tried to stick to the Waterfront Trail as much as
possible. We were heading through suburban area with many really nice
houses.
We
eventually rounded a corner and the Toronto skyline came into view
with the CN Tower dominating the view. We made our way through the
populated madness and reached a small park where we sat and enjoyed
the snack the Lynda had packed for us, bran muffins and fruit. After
eating we continued on into the city. We met up with another guy who
was riding into town. His name was Larry and he works for a non
profit here that deals with bike events that raise money for cancer
funds. He is also an avid cyclist and in 2007 he took 17th
in the Race Across America. It goes from Oceanside, CA to Atlantic
City, NJ...coast to coast, over 3000 miles. He did it in 12 days. He
biked us into town and helped up find our destination. Before we
parted ways he bought us a shot of espresso at a local coffeehouse.
Supposed to be some of the best in Toronto.
Kris
phoned Elena, our contact who is hosting us while we are in Toronto,
and got directions to the house. It is a Yogi commune with 13
residents. It was only two blocks or so from the coffeehouse so we
biked over and she met us outside. We set up our tent in the backyard
and showered. After showering we headed out to see the town.
We
stopped at a pizza place in Little Italy and then biked through
Chinatown and made our way to the CN Tower. We paid the admission fee
and headed to the top! The CN Tower is still the worlds tallest
structure. We went through security and got into the elevator. It
moves 15 mph and there are windows in the wall and floor so you can
watch as you go up! We made it to the observation level and looked
around. It was a really awesome 360 degree view! After feeling
content on the observation level we headed up to the Sky pod. It is
the highest point on the tower that you can go. It goes way above the
observation level and we could feel it swaying slightly in the wind.
We
headed back down the elevator and then went to the level with the
glass floor! You can walk on the glass and look all the way to the
ground. We could see our bikes locked up way below! We went to the
outdoor lookout and then headed back to the ground once we were
content.
Once
we got to the bottom we headed to the Distillery District to find the
Mill Street Brewery. We found it and went is for a beer. We had the
Tankhouse Ale...not bad. After that we headed back across town to the
Amsterdam Brewery. We tried some beer there and then headed back
toward the commune. We stopped in at the Cloak and Dagger, a local
pub, and enjoyed some bluegrass by The Slocan Ramblers. We headed
back to the commune and went to bed. Another day of exploration for
us tomorrow.
Day
30 Rest Day, Toronto
It
was great to sleep in this morning! After we woke up and showered we
headed down college st. to find a good coffee shop. We went to Subway
and had lunch before going to Manic Coffee and got a bunch of
computer work done even though we didn't have any internet. After
that we headed back to our tent and while Zach took a nap, Kris went
back downtown and tried to find some internet. The computer wasn't
working properly so he ended up finding an internet cafe there and
getting some more work done.
After
the computer work was complete he went back and woke up Zach. From
there we got ready and went down to the Steam Whistle Brewery for a
tour. The tours were almost filled and we had to head to the game
soon so we decided to sample some beers and do some filming instead.
We learned that the brewery is a green company just like the old
round house that it is part of. The old roundhouse used steam from a
nearby plant in the early 1920's to turn the locomotives and was
truly one of the first green buildings of its kind.
After
the brewery we headed to Kensington Market and had a great burger
dinner and checked out a really cool area of town. We quickly headed
back to the tent and then raced down to Rogers Center for a Blue Jays
baseball game. They were playing the Baltimore Orioles and we had
great seats in the lower deck in outfield. Two home runs came within
20 feet of us so that was really exciting as well. The best part was
the Jays won!
After
the game we headed back to College st. and got a couple beers and
watched game 2 of the Eastern Conference finals. What a great
overtime game! We headed back to the tent to get a good nights rest
before a long day of navigating through the streets of this large
city. We are off to Port Hope tomorrow.
Day
31 – Downtown Toronto to Port Hope ~ 74 miles
Woke
up this morning and didn't want to move or get out of bed. Its
amazing how a cooler night makes you want to sleep as long as
possible. We eventually got up and got packed up, stretched, and
rehydrated. We opted to get out of Toronto before having breakfast so
around 9:30 we took off. We headed through the renowned Kensington
Market, China Town, and financial district to get some footage and
then slowly made our way out of downtown.
We
followed the Waterfront trail and reached a suburb where we stopped
at a local bakery for some coffee and a small breakfast. We left a
bit unfulfilled, but had to keep pressing on. We were facing a 70+
mile day and just wanted to reach our destination.
We
continued to follow the Waterfront Trail but quickly got frustrated
by its zig zag nature. It kept going out toward the lake and then
back inland following the points of the shore.
We
stopped for lunch and tried to get some food at a No Frills
supermarket but couldn't find anything that we wanted. So we went to
another local shop and had a sandwich. Again we left unfulfilled. We
reached a bike shop and asked for directions and they told us to
follow highway 2. So we did and it eventually marked back up with the
trail. We followed it a bit further and it led us through some
unsatisfactory gravel trail in a provincial park. We stopped at the
visitors center and they gave us directions to avoid the trail.
Around
3 or 3:30 we reached a turn in our route we surprisingly met up with
Richard from the Oshawa Cycling Club. We had been in contact with him
previously and had planned to meet up with him. However we hadn't
heard from him yet today so we figured something had come up. But
once we reached that turn he was there waiting for us in his car. He
greeted us and parked the car and hopped on his bike to ride a
distance with us. He was a very nice guy and he and his wife have
done a fair share of touring themselves. He rode with us for over an
hour and showed us the good route to follow. We took a picture
together and parted ways.
From
where we parted we had about another 15 or so miles to Port Hope
where we would be staying with Bart at his family home. We arrived in
Port Hope right around 6 or 6:30 and stopped at a convenience store
for a quick snack and to get directions to his home. Afterwards we
made our way to his house and he greeted us outside. He is originally
from a small town near Wilmer, MN. Nice to meet a native Minnesotan.
He and his family have a great place with a nice view of Lake
Ontario.
After
showering and getting settled the three of us went to a local
restaurant for dinner. It was about a 10 min walk from his place.
After eating we walked back and sat and enjoyed a beer and talked for
a while. After Bart and his son went to bed we walked out to the lake
to enjoy it for a few minutes. We are going to bed in a nice warm
home with comfortable quarters.
Tomorrow
we are headed to a local bike shop in Bloomington, ON tomorrow, about
a 60 mile day. Forecast isn't looking to good. Rain with 25 mph winds
coming from the east...our direction of travel. We take it as it
comes. We really enjoyed Toronto and hope to return someday. This day
marks the end of our 1st month on the road! It has been
great and we know it will continue to be. Thank you to everyone who
has got us to this point!
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